Research and Other Investigations from China

An Empty Chinese Metropolis in Conde Nast Traveler

Matthew Niederhauser's photograph of the Ordos Museum appears in Conde Nast Traveler.

One of my photographs from the amazingly ridiculous Kangbashi district in Ordos was featured in Conde Nast Traveler this past month. The building shown is the Ordos Museum designed by MAD architects, one of the preeminent Chinese architecture firms founded by Ma Yansong who previously toiled as a project designer for Zaha Hadid Architects. The building itself remains a wonder to behold as its irregular shape clashes with the geometrical grid that binds the rest of the newfangled district. Whether or not it will see any use is the real question now that it finally opened. The municipal government can barely get people to stay put in the Kangbashi residential developments, let alone consistently fill up over 40,000 square meters of exhibition space. The flagship cultural center of Ordos will probably accumulate more sand from the Gobi desert than actual visitors. Anyway, I will be featuring more photographs of MAD buildings in the near future thanks to my first assignment with The New York Times Magazine. In the meantime, you can check out some extra photographs I took of the unfinished interior.

The unfinished interior of the Ordos Museum

The unfinished interior of the Ordos MuseumThe unfinished interior of the Ordos Museum

Beijing’s Infinite Loop: Ole Scheeren and the CCTV Tower

Ole Scheeren stands beside his greatest creation, the CCTV Tower in Beijing

As many of you may know, I am a huge fan of the CCTV Tower in Beijing’s Central Business District. In my excitement that they finally turned on the lights in the soaring loop of a skyscraper, I scouted out locations and posted shots of it igniting the skyline. A few months later, as fortune would have it, I received an assignment to photograph Ole Scheeren, the former parter of Rem Koolhaas at OMA and mastermind behind the design and construction of the CCTV Tower. Basically I got to sneak around the new offices of Ole Scheeren in Jianwai Soho and then pose him in front of his awesome edifice. In the end, I used the same locations from the night shoot to photograph Ole Scheeren with the CCTV Tower. Unfortunately I was not allowed to photograph any models of his upcoming projects which were amazing. Ole himself was very affable during the shoot and is no stranger to the camera thanks to his high-profile, paparazzi-trailed relationship with actress Maggie Cheung. A looker and dresser, Ole made sure he was properly attired for the occasion and rocked a formidable Blue Steel. The clippings are from the article in the newly minted Port Magazine out of London.

Ole Scheeren sits in his office overlooking the Central Business District in Beijing

Indonesian Dispatches: The Mighty Borobodur

Borobudur, a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in Indonesia

My trip to Indonesia in February was not all hardcore concerts and overnight buses. I was fortunate enough to take a day or two off from touring to check out some of the country’s cultural splendor. For years I wanted to visit the 9th-century Buddhist monument, Borobudur. Over the past decade I have been able to photograph most of the great Buddhist archeological sites in China, Mongolia, Nepal, India, Bhutan, Burma, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. Borobudur surely ranks as one of the most celebrated and lived up to many of my expectations, even if it did not quite match the scale of Angkor Wat or Bagan. Still, the massive pile easily exhibits some of the greatest relief sculpture in Southeast Asia. The 2,672 panels that wind their way to the top stupa intricately depict mythological stories as well as scenes from daily life. It is not often you get the chance to peer back one thousand years into the milieu of an ancient civilization. Check out some of the pictures below to see the depth and detail of their work. They were truly exquisite.

Carving from Borobudur, a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in Indonesia

Carving from Borobudur, a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in IndonesiaCarving from Borobudur, a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in IndonesiaCarving from Borobudur, a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in Indonesia

Carving from Borobudur, a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in IndonesiaCarving from Borobudur, a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in IndonesiaCarving from Borobudur, a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in Indonesia

Carving from Borobudur, a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in IndonesiaCarving from Borobudur, a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in IndonesiaCarving from Borobudur, a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in Indonesia

CCTV Headquarters Lights Up the Beijing Skyline

The CCTV Tower lights up the Beijing sky at night

This is just a small note to all the CCTV Headquarters enthusiasts out there. The night time is now the right time to check out the stunning building. After sitting in the dark for the past few years, the authorities that be finally turned the lights on the CCTV Headquarters. Its smaller sister, the Television Cultural Center which was supposed to house the Beijing Mandarin Oriental Hotel, still sits in ignoble darkness as repairs begin after the devastating fire that gutted the building last year. For now I must only enjoy half the CCTV complex lighting up the Beijing skyline.

The CCTV Tower lights up the Beijing sky at night

Shanghai World Financial Center: Peeping Pudong Urban Sprawl

The observation deck for the Shanghai World Financial Center on the left is situated on the 100th floor

The Shanghai World Financial Center (SWFC) is a marvel to behold. Rising above the equally impressive Jin Mao Tower, its graceful arches reach 101 stories, the second-tallest building in the world. The SWFC also ranks as number one for the highest occupied floor in the world, beating out the Burj Khalifa in Dubai, and sports the world’s tallest observation deck. The Observatory Bridge runs along the top of the trapezoidal opening near the apex of the SWFC and offers generous views of Shanghai on all sides. During my trip earlier this month, I picked a particularly clear day to visit. The light hitting the Pudong side was the best and offered uninhibited views of the vast urban sprawl that now characterizes the edges of Shanghai.

Urban sprawl in Pudong from the top of the Shanghai World Financial CenterUrban sprawl in Pudong from the top of the Shanghai World Financial Center

Urban sprawl in Pudong from the top of the Shanghai World Financial CenterUrban sprawl in Pudong from the top of the Shanghai World Financial Center